Indian and Indonesian designers headline launch of Jakarta Fashion Week

The Femina Group and Embassy of India’s “Festival of India” launched the Jakarta Fashion Week with a high-profile, exclusive runway show at Pacific Place, Jakarta, on Nov. 14.

The evening, befittingly entitled “A Tale of Two Cultures”, marked the opening of the annual Fashion Week with a display of Indonesian and Indian designers’ takes on the typical fabrics of each other’s countries.

“There is nothing that is more symbolic of [our] long tradition of close cultural exchange and contact than textiles… And today, the unique collaboration between Indian and Indonesian designers will carry this long association…into the contemporary period,” said Indian Ambassador to Indonesia, Biren Nanda, in launching the event alongside vice president of Femina Group, Svida Alisjahbana.

The collections of four renowned Indonesian and Indian designers hit the ramp in succession, interspersed with cultural performances from the two countries, as gathered dignitaries, diplomats, and prominent members of the fashion and business communities looked on.

Sebastian Gunawan’s choice of dresses cut from black pashmina with lurid floral patterns contrasted refreshingly with the black lace stockings and gaudy patent leather peep-toe heels that his models displayed. While the bright colors and shiny material usually associated with Indian apparel were missing from Gunawan’s line-up, hints of Indian style glimpsed through in, for instance, ballooning or straight-legged pants that were highly reminiscent of salwars (trousers that accompany a long shirt for women).

The look of the runway changed significantly with Malini Ramani’s collection, in which she had made imaginative use of Indonesian colors, fabrics, and shapes. Though safe blacks and silvers did make appearances, the designer had clearly found and played with the sense of color and texture in these fabrics. Her signature hood surfaced in the perfect spots—accompanying short, fun, vibrant dresses that took Indonesian fabrics into an impressive direction.

Indonesia’s Priyo Octaviano made hardly a subtle point with his “Eden” and “Earth” collections that next took the catwalk. The first round of designs combined belts and throws of stuffed birds (or dainty feathers) with soft brown fabric that showed off the intricate skill of those who produce such textiles.

From this somewhat tribal theme, Octaviano’s collection shifted into solid blacks cut in billowing floor-length capes and dresses. The stout jewelry and ‘goth’ make-up that accompanied this “Earth” collection were almost more effective conveying the designer’s artistic vision than the clothes themselves.

The last collection of the evening was that of Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani. Like his compatriot, Tahiliani made ample use of the colorful fabrics of Indonesia, but shaped them into distinctly more Indian styles. The traditional and contemporary takes on the Indian sari were apparent beneath the Indonesian patterns and yet took on a different character because of the fabric used—a convergence that embodied the spirit of friendship of the evening rather aptly.
    
With each seat priced at about Rp. 1.5 million (US$150), the star-studded event raised funds to help West Sumatran children affected in September’s earthquake. Jakarta Fashion Week continues through till Nov. 20 at Pacific Place.

The “Festival of India” also continues bringing Indian culture to Indonesia this week with a Food Festival and Painting Exhibition at Hotel Four Seasons, Jakarta.

Kanupriya Kapoor